This Is the 1911 Part to Replace to Fight Muzzle Flip

We all know and love the .45 ACP cartridge. How could you not? It produces about 530 or so ft-lbs of muzzle energy, over a third more than some 9mm loads, giving it superior stopping power.

It’s a serious handgun cartridge, that’s for sure, made all the more popular by the 1911 that arguably made it what it is.

But the tradeoff - it kicks. Not crazy hard, like a .454 Casull or .44 Magnum or .357, but still pretty hard. You can’t spend a whole day shooting .45 ACP and not feel it.

Anyway, the point is this. If you have a 1911, there’s one 1911 part that you should absolutely replace if you give a hoot about recoil, and it’s the barrel.

But there’s a caveat. You can’t just swap it with any barrel. You need an integrally-suppressed barrel or a threaded barrel that will allow you to install a compensator.

The Compensator Card: Kick Recoil to the Curb

The easiest way to make this swap is just to get another barrel that is threaded so you can add a compensator. If you can’t find a threaded barrel, you may be able to get one that is integrally suppressed.

Consider one of the Roto 4M Compensated Barrels we sell here in 3 calibers (including, of course .45 ACP).

There’s a lot to love about these barrels, not the least of which is ease of installation. Also, the compensators are permanently attached, which means there’s less weight at the muzzle end than there would be with a screw-on compensator.

But really, the main benefit here is the massive blow one of these compensators will deal to recoil, and, consequently, muzzle flip.

In fact, a quality compensator can slash recoil and muzzle flip by more than 50% without adversely affecting shot power.

For you, that means less discomfort arising from recoil, plus lower muzzle flip, which should allow you to make faster, more accurate follow-up shots. It should also improve your confidence in handling the weapon.

But really, the ability to corral muzzle flip with a big, powerful cartridge like .45 ACP speaks for itself. A change as simple as this is one you’ll be able to feel immediately and which will help you shoot more accurately without making any other changes to the gun.

But this 1911 part is not the only upgrade you can make to the gun. Others also install heavier guide rods (like tungsten) guide rods, which add weight near the muzzle and help keep it down.

On top of that, and besides replacing 1911 parts, there are a lot of other things you can do to fight recoil and muzzle flip. Some of these are:

• Dry fire training: Dry fire training, in and of itself, will not combat recoil. However, training will help you learn when the trigger will break and the gun will fire, which will help you learn not to flinch. And, when you don’t flinch, you’ll keep the gun steady when firing, which will help you shoot more accurately. So, you won’t actually be fighting recoil, but in some ways you get the same effects. Note: treat every firearm as though it were loaded, always keep the firearm pointed in a safe direction and never dry fire train except at the range. Snap caps are suitable for dry fire training because they prevent damage to the firing pin.
• Shoot lighter loads: Alright, now, this actually will have a noticeable effect on felt recoil, and one of the most important ones on this list. The next time you buy a box of .45 ACP, look at the load data. Look for a metric called muzzle energy. Not to get too deep into the science, but the lower this figure, the less the felt recoil will be. If you can’t see muzzle energy, look for bullet weight (usually measured in grains) and muzzle velocity (in FPS, or feet-per-second). All else being equal, a lighter bullet and a lower muzzle velocity produce less felt recoil. Anyway, the lower the muzzle energy, the less recoil there will be. Shoot lower muzzle-energy producing loads for training purposes to save yourself from the punishment of recoil while at the range.

                

• Learn how to get a proper grip on the gun: Holding the gun properly will not actually reduce recoil but it will better equip you to control it. Basically, you want to hold the gun as high and tight as possible, and maximize surface area contact between your hands and the gun. Grip the gun with your shooting hand so that the webbing between your thumb and forefinger comes right up to the base of the slide. Wrap all three fingers fully around the grip and lay your trigger finger along the frame at the base of the slide till ready to shoot. Wrap your support hand fully around your shooting hand, so that your fingers cup and support the fingers of your shooting hand. Your non-dominant trigger index finger should be right at the base of the trigger guard. Lay your non-dominant thumb along the base of the slide, as far forward as is practical. This will help you maintain a strong, sure grip on the gun, and prepare you to absorb recoil.

• Adopt a surer stance: Last but not least, take up a good stance. This also won’t actually cut recoil, but will make you better able to absorb it. The athletic stance is a good one. Square yourself with the target, bend your knees slightly, and lean forward a little at the waist, so you’re ready to lean into the force of recoil.

Put all of these into practice, including upgrading your 1911 with a compensated barrel, and you’ll hardly feel the kick from a .45!

On the Hunt for Performance-Boosting 1911 Parts?

Here for a different 1911 part besides an integrally compensated barrel? You have the best chance of getting it here. Take a look through our full catalog (we carry 1911 mags, too) and get in touch with us at 610-250-3960 if you have any questions about parts or compatibility.